Sustainability and Responsibility: What’s Cooking in Myrtle Beach
Catching Up with Chef Joe Bonaparte by Melissa LaScaleia This month, the Insider took a look at what is cooking and in the works for Chef Joe Bonaparte, executive director of the International Culinary Institute of Myrtle Beach in the Market Common, and a trailblazer in the arenas of sustainability and food production from farm to table. “We have a lot of things going on that we’re excited about,” says Joe. “Last August, we started a full-scale recycling program that includes plastic, cardboard, and glass. We also have hundreds of pounds of compost that we’ve been sending to a compost facility each week that we’re about to get back for our gardens. From implementing these two things, our waste has been reduced by 70%, which is drastic and a major accomplishment.” Joe is currently working with the James Beard Foundation which has developed a curriculum to reduce food waste by teaching students techniques to utilize the entirety of a food. It involves things like crisping fish skin, doing something with the fish head, such as cooking the collar or cheek, using pits and peels; some are as simple as making sausage from pork trimmings. Steven Satterfield, the well known author of Root to Leaf, is one of the program’s major contributors. “There are a lot of things that get trimmed and thrown away, and if you know food, ingredients, and cooking techniques, you know how to use those things,” Joe says. “It’s another facet of creative cooking that we’re embedding in the curriculum for students; it can be incorporated into current culinary school classes with ease; and it reduces a significant amount of what gets sent to the landfill. Chef Joe Bonaparte (above) is a sought-after chef, lecturer and educator for his culinary knowledge and expertise in sustainability practices. He focusses on the importance of selecting high-quality, chemical and hormone-free foods not only for their superior taste, but also for their positive impact on our environment and economic livelihood. “Sustainability is going mainstream now. It’s a big step for the James Beard Foundation, to branch out of just doing awards. I give them a lot of credit. There are probably around fifty chefs and instructors from around the country that were asked by the foundation to be pilot programs for this. We’re going to be one of them so we can help make improvements.” The objective of the program is to promote sustainability and reduce food waste. Composting, while an amazing practice, isn’t the ideal first step for implementing this. Joe explains why: “When you don’t use the whole animal or whole plant, more has to be raised and grown to produce an equal amount of those items that are consumable. “There is a lot more to a pig than a pork chop, and a chicken than a breast or tender. If you use more of the raw product, you buy less, and that goes all the way back up the line of the food cycle where we resort to factory farming in this country to meet demand— and it is a major problem with our food chain. What we produce could be cut in half if we didn’t waste so much. The answer isn’t modifying vegetables to be drought resistant or spraying them with chemicals, or producing meat like it’s a widget and it’s run through a factory. It’s just ridiculous because it’s focusing on the wrong end of the food chain.” Joe has developed his personal reflections on food and its production based on his experience of over 30 years in this industry. Indigo Farms at the market “We’ve grown up in this country with abundance and waste,” he says. “A study by the Natural Resources Defense Council in 2012 found that 40% of food produced in this country is never eaten, while at the same time, one in six Americans struggle to put a meal on the table. “If you’re reducing how many plants, cows or pigs have to be grown or raised, you’re talking about doing things for the environment that help to be more sustainable. We want to get to the point where composting is the last resort. Instead of approaching cooking with the mindset that all the carrot peels have to go into the garbage, it is thinking— what can I do with these? How can I use this as food? I can make a soup with them, I can fry them and make crunchy garnish, I can make carrot coulis, I can put them in carrot cake. “We’re just a small part of the feedback for this task force, but it’s a big thing for culinary schools nationwide because sustainability hasn’t been a major part of the focus in American culinary education, and it needs to be. There is a strong emphasis on education at every farmers market, to teach culinary students about food sourcing. “Sustainability hasn’t been a major part of the focus in American culinary education, and it needs to be,” says Joe “Culinary education has always been about technique,” he continues. “But there is so much more to it. Cooking starts with where we buy our food. If I buy something that has lived an atrocious life, I might be able to take it and make it taste good and you think it’s great. But to me, it’s not great for life as a whole. It reflects a lack of understanding about where our food comes from and a lack of understanding about our planet— thinking that it has endless resources and can endlessly renew itself. Food, from birth to table, is a really long evolution. So with culinary education, it’s about adopting more sustainable principles, teaching our students, and then passing those on to restaurants, hotels, and grocery stores which in turn educate consumers.” Knowing where your food comes from is important to Joe; he’s been on the board of the Waccamaw Farmers Market Cooperative since moving here four years ago. He’s also visited many of the area’s … Read more